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History of St. Mary's Cathedral, Edinburgh
St Mary's is the Cathedral Church of the Archdiocese of St Andrews
and Edinburgh.
ORIGINS OF THE CATHEDRAL.
The original See of St Andrews was founded before 900; erected
into a Metropolitan See by Bull of Sixtus IV on 17th August 1472
and was vacant for 307 years from the execution at Stirling of
John Hamilton, eighth Archbishop, on 6th April 1571 until the
restoration of the hierarchy in 1878. It is with the ancient primatial
See of St Andrews that our present Archdiocese of St Andrews and
Edinburgh has continuity. However, the story of the Mother Church
of the Archdiocese - St Mary's - begins during the days of the
Vicars Apostolic prior to the restoration of the hierarchy in
1878. Bishop Hay, Vicar Apostolic for the Lowland District, chose
the site of St Mary's in 1801. He had seen his Chapel in Blackfriars'
Wynd burnt down by a mob, and hoped that the new site would be
a more sheltered spot, protected by the surrounding buildings.
But it was Bishop Cameron who actually opened the Chapel of St
Mary's - designed by the prominent ecclesiastical architect, James
Gillespie Graham - in 1814, with the first Masses being celebrated
in August of that year. Under the successors of Bishop Cameron
the church was considerably embellished and in 1878 on the restoration
of the Scottish hierarchy it became the pro-cathedral of the new
Archdiocese of St Andrews and Edinburgh. At the request of Archbishop
William Smith it was named the Metropolitan Cathedral on 5th July
1886 with all the rights and privileges appertaining to such a
Church. It ws also on this date that the decree for the erection
of the Cathedral Chapter was promulgated. When St Mary's was built,
however, it was merely a rectangular building with a shallow apse
masked by a perpendicular Gothic facade, conveying the impression
of a nave with flanking aisles, an example of "finest Gothic,
with pinnacles according to the antique, which produced a fine
efect on those who admire the style adopted." In 1841 Bishop Gillis
enlarged the sanctuary and had a new pulpit placed in the Cathedral.
In 1866 Bishop Strain, at the time Vicar Apostolic of the Eastern
District of Scotland, had a cloister chapel built, where the Lady
Aisle now is. It was Canon Donlevy, administrator of the Cathedral
at the end of the nineteenth century who endeavoured to give the
Cathedral a dignity worthy of its name.
1892-1945
He was responsible for major changes. Some of which were made
necessary by the fire in the Theatre Royal in 1892. It was he
who had the side walls of the church made into arches, with aisles
of considerable size on either side. The new aisle on the Lady
Altar side replaced the separate cloister chapel. The original
saucer shaped roof was left unaltered at the time for lack of
funds. However, the shallow sanctuary was extended backwards by
three bays of arches. To achieve this the priests' house in Chapel
Lane was demolished and the new property at 61 York Place was
acquired and became connected to the Cathedral by a new tunnel
built under Chapel Lane. The opening of the new sanctuary took
place in 1896. Seven years later Canon Dunlevy was buried in the
vault in front of the Lady Altar. His has been the only non episcopal
burial in the Cathedral. In the sanctuary vault are buried all
the Vicars Apostolic of the Eastern District and the Archbishops
of St Andrews and Edinburgh, with the exception of Bishop Hay
- buried at Fetternear - and Bishop Gillis - buried in Gillis
Centre Chapel. Monsignor Stuart contributed much to the continuing
improvement of the Cathedral fabric. The floor was altered to
its present concrete and terazzo form.Likewise, Monsignor Stuart
was responsible for the panelling of the Lady aisle, which became
the setting for the Stations of the Cross. They were made by Mayer
of Munich, as a memorial to the men of the parish who died in
the First World War. After the death of Monsignor Stuart the congregation
installed a new High Altar in his memory. The sanctuary was extended
to the full width of the nave and a magnificent baldachino built
over the altar. In 1932 it was decided to raise the roof of the
Cathedral to the prsent height. All visitors will notice the fine
decorative carving on the nave roof. There are angels with outstretched
wings in varying colours, spanning the spaces between the clerestory
and others, lower down, support the various trusses. Their breasts
bear shields surrounded by the coats of arms in heraldic colours,
first of St Andrew, St Cuthbert, St Margaret and St David, then
of the Vicars Apostolic, Cameron, Paterson, Carruthers and Gillis;
then of the Archbishops Strain, W.Smith, A.McDonald, J.A.Smith,
A.J.McDonald. The last coat of arms at the extreme end of the
Lady Altar is that of Pope Pius XI.
POSTWAR
The 1970's saw the next stage of structural changes. The porch
and baptistery were removed and replaced by a more spacious porch
on part of the old Theatre Royal site. The alterations meant that
the original facade of the Cathedral was revealed in all its splendour
for the first time this century. In accordance with the reform
of the liturgy of the Second Vatican Council the sanctuary was
remodelled. A marble fore-altar was acquired from the former Catholic
Apostolic Church at Bellevue. The High Altar was dismantled and
some of the marble was used to make a podium for the tabernacle
directly under the baldachino. A baptismal font placed on the
side of the sanctuary, was acquired from a church, now the headquarters
of the Bible Society of Scotland. Subsequent to these and other
alterations the Cathedral was solemnly dedicated on the 18th April
1978. Before the Papal Visit of 1982 the Sacred Heart Chapel was
changed to that of St Andrew. Part of the altar was excavated
to provide repositories for two of the relics of St Andrew. One
relic of St Andrew came to the Cathedral in 1879 and the other
was given by Pope paul VI to Cardinal Gray in 1969. A prominent
feature of the Cathedral interior is the painting surmounting
the Sanctuary Arch, of the Coronation of the Blessed Virgin Mary
as Queen of Heaven. It is the work of the Belgian artist, Louis
Beyart. Over the years, St Mary's has witnessed many impressive
liturgical ceremonies. On 7th February 1828, Bishop Cameron, the
founder of St Mary's, died and was buried in the vaults of the
Cathedral. This was the first time since the Reformation that
a Catholic funeral of a prelate was publicly performed in Scotland.
In 1830, St Mary's was the main place of worship for the deposed
King Charles X of France and his family. His son the Comte de
Chambord was confimed in the Cathedral that year. A magnificent
monstrance commemorated this event. At the funeral of Bishop Paterson,
who died on 30th october 1831 the presiding prelate was Cardinal
de Latil, Archbishop of Rheims. He was the first Cardinal since
Cardinal Beaton before the Reformation, to assist at High Mass
in Scotland. On Sunday July 22nd 1838 Bishop Gillis was consecrated
at St Mary's. He later presided at the funeral rites celebrated
for John Menzies of Pitfodels, one of the greatest benefactors
of the Church in Scotland. The Chapter of Canons of the Cathedral
was established in 1886 and since that time regularly celebrates
the liturgy in the Cathedral. Down through the years the Cathedral
has witnessed the solemn consecrations and funerals of the various
Vicars Apostolic and Archbishops. However, there have been other
liturgical events of great significance. One of these was the
solemn reception of Cardinal Gordon Joseph Gray on his return
from the consistory in Rome when he received the Red Hat of a
Cardinal. Also unforgettable was the reception of Cardinal Glemp,
Archbishop of Warsaw and Primate of Poland in 1985. The present
Archbishop, the Most Reverend Keith Patrick O'Brien was ordained
to the episcopate and enthroned as Archbishop on 5th August 1985.
Each year the Cathedral is also the setting for the Solemn Mass
to mark the opening of the Edinburgh International Festival. Likewise
of great significance is the annual "Red Mass",- the votive Mass
of the Holy Spirit celebrated to implore God's blessing and gift
of wisdom on the deliberations of the legal profession in Scotland.
All these celebrations are supported by the Cathedral altar servers
and the men and boys of the Choir. Without doubt, the liturgical
highlight of the Cathedral's life was the visit of Pope John Paul
II on 31st May 1982. During his pastoral visit to Scotland he
addressed a large congregation of priests, female and male religious
in the Cathedral and prayed at the shrine of St Andrew. The Cathedral
looks forward with confidence to its 200th anniversary in 2014.
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